Saturday, August 14, 2010

IPod Case Tutorial!

okay, first--two disclaimers....

1) I am SO sorry, I forgot to turn the flash off of my camera before starting and low and behold...my pictures are terrible! Of course now the project is finished and I can't replicate some of them...I hope they are at least clear enough for you to get the general idea
2) this is my first tutorial, and a project I can practically make in my sleep...so if I missed anything or it was unclear, please feel free to message me!
 Here we go!





I use this case to hold my Ipod Nano and headphones. I was so tired of either losing my headphones in my purse, or finding them tangled around everything. This little case will hold the ipod and the headphones in one neat little package!

Step one is to measure your gadget, whether its an mp3 player, a cell phone, a camera...whatever. The one I'm making for a friend here measures 3.5 inches tall, by 1.5 inches wide.

To figure out what size fabric you'll need:
Since we'll be using a half inch seam allowance, on both edges and then top stitching another half inch or so, add two inches to your height. (for this one I'm making its 3.5+2 for a total of 5.5)
For the width of our piece you take your measurement and multiply it times four (we'll be folding the pieces in half toward each other, then in half again) and then I like to add an additional four inches just to give some wiggle room. (my width is 1.5, so (1.5*4)+4=10)

Final measurements for my fabric will be 5.5 by 10

Cut two pieces of fabric, two pieces of interfacing (optional, but I find its easier to sew smoothly if the fabric is interfaced a bit. I used Pellon 809 because I had it on hand) and one piece of quilt batting (I used Warm and Natural Quilt batting, again just because I had it on hand) to your measurements.
You will also need a piece of narrow ribbon and a two or four hole button (I don't like using the ones that stick out a bit, because its not as simple to secure the ribbon with one of them, so a flat button works best).


Fuse the interfacing to your fabric, or baste it if its sew-in interfacing. Then we are ready to sew!

Layer your fabric as follows, and pin it.

Lay one piece of your print on your workspace with the print facing up (interfacing against the table). Place the second piece of fabric to where the print is facing down against the previous print (interfacing facing up toward you). Then place the piece of quilt batting on top and pin. Sew around the edges using a half inch seam allowance and leaving an opening big enough to turn it right-side-out through. I prefer to sew it with the batting on the bottom, and I leave my opening on the long side, since we will be top stitching that side, making it easier to close up the opening in the end.

Trim all your seams and cut your corners, turn your project right-side-out. I usually leave my seam allowance around the opening, so its easier to “catch” it when sewing it shut. Press. Press. Press. You want the piece as flat as possible, the corners poked out as much as possible and the opening pressed smoothly. Fold it in half width-wise and press. Open it up, fold the ends in to meet the middle crease, and press again.


Now, we are going to attach the button before we assemble the entire piece, because we only want it to be sewn through one layer. Fold your case to look like the final project (both ends folded in to meet the middle, and on the OUTSIDE mark the center. This is where your button will be sewn. Unfold the case so it is one layer thick. Take your ribbon and fold under one end, place your button on top of the ribbon at the center mark and sew it using your machine. The free end of the ribbon should hand AWAY from the center fold of the project. I find that this secures the button and ribbon more securely, allowing more use of the case and less stress on the closure.


Once your button and ribbon closure is secured to the outside of the case, its time to complete the project! This part is a bit tricky because of sewing through so many layers at once. I have a piece of cardboard that I've folded in half, and I use it to hold my presser foot level when I sew at the end of a thick project.
I would also recommend using a bit longer of a stitch length. I set my Singer Confidence to a 3 length for top stitching To make sure the opening gets stitched closed, I also move my needle position over to the far right so that I'm stitching as close to the edge as possible, but still place my fabric to use about a 3/8 seam allowance. This is enough room to keep the presser foot flat and make your stitching easier.


Fold your sides into the middle, leaving a small bit of space at the center for the fold, and pin. Measure both sides to make sure they are even at the top and the bottom. Mine are about two inches wide. Pin and stitch, making sure to back stitch at the beginning, end, middle where the two pieces meet and over your opening.

Treat the end of the ribbon with fray check or heat set it and you are done!!

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